So where have I been over the last week that has led me to hanging out in my p.j's for most of today... one word Huaraz! (pronounced more like Wahraz)
Huaraz is a medium sized town found up in the Mountains north of Lima. Funnily enough it's actually warmer than Lima! Probably due to the fact that completely unlike Lima it has few clouds hanging over it - particularly at this time of the year.
So I arrived bright and early (7am) on the bus into the Huaraz last week. Hopped in a taxi and was taken to Caroline Lodging. I was warmly greeted told to put my bags in the dorm and head up to the roof-top balcony for breakfast at 8am. Hot Coca tea, bread rolls with melted cheese and bread and jam in the warm sun on the balcony meeting new people. It was a great way to start my adventures there.
There is so much to see and do round Huaraz that I decided to hit the ground running. So I enquired about a tour I could do that day and next thing I know I'm sitting on a bus pretty much next to the same french girls I had met at breakfast that morning (that's serendipity for ya!) headed out to see the temples at Chavin.
| Laguna Querococha - Huaraz |
| Temple at Chavin - Huaraz |
As these things go the temple had unfortunately been partially buried under an avalanche in 1970 that destroyed some parts of it but remarkably the main building in the complex is still fairly intact and we were able to wonder around inside. There was an awesome Obelisk inside called Tello (named after Archeologist Julio C Tello).
Bumping our way back into Huaraz township we arrived back quite late at night - 7pm so me, the two french girls and an American couple we had made friends with went for dinner at a lovely Thai restaurant they had found in town.... It's always interesting seeing other countries take on other national foods! At any rate it was nice having something a little different than the usual versions of rice and potatoes for dinner.
The next day the 5 of us found ourselves crammed into a cab bumping our way up another dirt road to the start of the Lake Churup walk. Starting the climb I suddenly started to notice the slight effects of altitude sickness. Breathing was a little more difficult but having experienced asthma my whole life it didn't bother me so much, the headache and jaw ache that formed when I cracked my neck though did. Fortunately my friends had more experience with altitude and gave me good advice i.e. take it really slowly, at my own pace. Heeding their advice and stopping every few minutes or so, as we climbed to catch my breath, and doing a little bit of BodyTalk on myself soon made all the difference and I was fine.
| Laguna Churup - Huaraz |
Finally seeing the lake appear out of the rocks and greenery was a welcome sight! I made one more last effort to climb up another rock to join my friends and we sat and enjoyed a hard earned lunch.
| Montaña dog! - with my French friends Bridget and Sandy |
The car ride back to Huaraz was slightly more uncomfortable as although us 4 girls in the back were all fairly small in size I think the combination of being crammed up against the door and aching muscles from the hike made the bumpy road seem that much worse.
This night the french girls took us to a Gringo cafe where I elatedly found they had more than just Cammomile, Anis and Coca tea on the menu! We sat and chatted while I melted into my Moroccan Mint Tea...
The girls also took us to a restaurant that seemed to be a bit of a local secret as although it was big there seemed to be more locals there than gringos. Always a good sign! We also found the menu very large and was also in English - a big help! I had another language learning experience here though. Having ordered a mushroom and asparagus tortilla I was surprised to find a thick omelet placed in front of me! Language lesson number # 20 - tortilla in Peru means big omelet. Not that I was complaining though. After the days hike I think I needed all that protein so I happily woofed it down.
I tried to have an early night that night as I had a very early start the next day...
6am and I'm sitting down in reception with my plastic bag full of clothes and day pack strapped to my back waiting expectantly for the tour van to arrive. Another long drive and another long bumpy road but a route that goes much higher up into the mountains!
Stopping at a little township in the middle of nowhere we disembark. We're handed a small plastic bag each with sandwiches, fruit, biscuits and chocolate while the donkeys are loaded up. While waiting a guy on a motorcycle pulls up and walks into the store. Coming back out with a bit of bread with nothing on it he stands by his bike gnawing on it so I asked if he had been in Tarapoto. Looking blank for a minute he asked me where that was. I replied up on the edge of the Amazon. I was wondering if he was a the same guy my American friend Michael had told me about who he'd met travelling through the area. Turns out it wasn't him as this guy had ridden his motorcycle all the way from Canada! Across the U.S. and was on his way down to Argentina! He told me how he wished he had started out with the same feeling/knowledge that he had now as he had started out feeling a little like he was on holiday so had been treating himself quite a bit, but now that he was in South America he was having to be more frugal in order to make things stretch til his final destination. My day pack was full of snacks so I ended up sharing most of my lunch with him. The smile on his face at having something other than bread to eat was awesome.
As times gone on I've discovered that riding a motorcycle across South America is actually a lot more common than I first thought! There are several people I've encountered who are doing the same or similar and who know of others who have done the same. My thoughts always drift back to the movie 'Motorcycle Diaries' when I encounter them and I can't help but wonder how many people that movie inspired to do the same.
The first day of the trek was pretty easy. Our little group of 9 fell naturally into little sub groups who walked together at varying speeds, and we meandered our way through some little villages handing out lollies that my new Israeli friend Eran had to some of the local kids.
On arrival at camp we were promptly given hot mugs of water for tea, and to our extremely happy surprise bowls of steaming soup, then a dish of rice, potatoes, veges, chicken and some awesome yummy tomatoe sauce type stuff that I wish I knew the recipe for!
There were only 3 girls at the camp - me and two Israeli girls so the 3 of us had to share a tent together. The first night was interesting. The sleeping bags were pretty good. Could withstand about -7 degrees but it was cold and the thin foam pad we had for bedding provided only just enough to keep us off the ground. I was very lucky as Eran had asked for two sleeping bags and had brought a Polar Fleece liner with him. He gave me the liner to use and I was so happy he did - particularly on the 2nd night!
| Cresting the montaña - Punta Union pass |
During the trek down I felt something tweek in my knee and had to take it real slow. Fortunately I had a stick that I had been using for most of the trek so I was able to use that to support myself, but there was definitely a little bit of pain starting to develop. I was so happy once we reached the camp.
That night we slept in a valley that was still quite high up and tended to channel wind. It gets dark quite early everywhere in Peru - between 5 and 6pm the suns starts going down, and it was cold so we basically all just crept into our sleeping bags with layers of clothes as soon as it got dark.
I took it slow during the rest of the trek. I think I was going a little too slow for the guides liking though and at one stage found him standing in front of me on the back of a horse indicating I was to ride for a while.
So I got to do a little horse trekking during the journey as well... must admit it was hairy going over some of the rocks though, which there were a lot of. I alternated that day doing a bit of walking and riding on the horse for 2 different spurts. I really admire the horses and donkeys who do those treks. They have to navigate some rather difficult paths as well as carrying the gear or riders.
The guide had a little surprise install for us that day. As I walked through the valley I saw a little hut. Not unusual as there are little national park huts dotted every so often along the trek. But then I realised that everyone from our group was sitting out side the hut drinking cerveza (beer)! Yep that's right. Some guy had decided it'd be quite profitable to setup a little snack bar out in the middle of the mountains. I think he was quite right in his thinking as well as none of the guys minded paying about 20 Soles for 1 beer!
Camp was a welcome site again that day and a little warmer now too as we were starting to get lower down. To our surprise that night we were treated to fried bread with cheese rolled in the middle and avocado dip upon arrival. Oh so good! They have such awesome avocados here. They're all just perfectly ripe!
The next day me and the Israeli girls woke up to find our faces puffy. It seems getting a puffy face and ankles/feet is a common occurrence with the altitude but it felt quite weird. Fortunately it only tends to happen in the morning. I trekked pretty much the whole of the last day (well 2 hour walk) on my own being last with my slow pace but was pretty happy with that as I was able to fully concentrate on where I was stepping. The trek was easy that day but there were still quite a few stoney impasses I had to carefully navigate.
The first sign of civilization was the pipes of the water works that fed off the river I had been following. Coming up the path I found one of the porters waiting for me. He looked confused though and indicated that there was someone else - me amigo - that should have been with me. I was confused and indicated that I thought everyone was in front of me. It turns out my friend Eran had turned back to make sure I was alright but must have taken the wrong path! Fortunately 20 minutes in he figured that if he hadn't found me by then he must have missed me and so headed back. He came down the path about 15 minutes after I had sat down with the others.
Back in town I gratefully melted into the hot shower, the shampoo gray - full of dust, washing the grime away.
| Church of San Francisco |
After a yummy breakfast of bread rolls, egg and avocado (curiously no one seems to eat loaf bread here - it's always rolls) we went to the Church of San Francisco to visit the famous catacombs. It's full of art and mysterious passageways, an awesome old library and as the guide kept pointing out proudly fine, sturdy architecture that has withstood many strong earthquakes - it's definitely worth visiting.
| Santa Rosa Procession |
That day was actually a holiday for Liman's as it was a celebration of Santa Rosa. Saint Rose was a seventeenth century patron saint of Lima named Isabel Flores of Oliva. Apparently she felt a great religious vocation and dedicated herself to being a laywoman, without belonging to any religious order in particular. She spent her life caring for the sick and her good nature earned her fame even while she was alive. People often visit the Santa Rosa church here dropping letters into her well seeking health and happiness.
We were fortunate to stumble across the parade happening downtown, which was basically a procession holding a big statue of the saint followed by a big brass band. Really interesting to see another countries celebrations.
| Pachacamac Ruins - Lima |
They say Pachacamac was primarily used as a religious site and then when the Inca took them into their empire it became an important administration centre.
That pretty much brings us up-to-date. Tomorrow I fly up to Cuzco for my last 10 days in Peru, which is exciting. It's a much loved area by everyone and I'm looking forward to basing myself in a neat little place retreat I've been told about in the Sacred Valley - by Pisac.
The adventure is not over yet!



